Institute of Ethiopian Studies
By Dr. Richard Pankhurst:-
I. The Fall of Maqdala
The British capture of Maqdala, Emperor Tewodros’s mountain capital 
in north-west Ethiopia, took place on 13 1868, immediately after the 
Ethiopian monarch committed suicide to avoid falling into the hands of 
his enemies. The fall of the citadel was described by an Ethiopian royal
 chronicler, Alaqa Walda Mariam, who, looking at the event from an 
Ethiopian point of view, states that when “everything fell into the 
hands of the English general… every [Ethiopian] soldier at Maqdala threw
 his weapons over the precipice and went and groveled before the enemy”.
 Those who failed to throw away their arms were, he claims, “considered 
as belligerents and many men thus perished”, presumably at the hands of 
the victorious army. Elaborating on this assertion, he declares that 
“the English troops rivalled one another” in “shooting down” any 
Ethiopian seen carrying spears or guns, and that “when anyone was seen 
taking up a weapon he was shot”.
The above grim picture, it is only fair to say, finds no confirmation
 in British official records which, on the other hand, do not, however, 
provide any contradictory evidence.
II. The Looting of the Fortress
The pillage, and subsequent destruction, of Maqdala is well 
documented in contemporary British accounts. The geographer Clements 
Markham, perhaps the leading British historian of the Expedition, 
recalls that Napier’s men, on entering the citadel, swarmed around the 
body of the deceased monarch. They then “gave three cheers over it, as 
if it had been a dead fox and then began to pull and tear the clothes to
 pieces until it was nearly naked”. This account is corroborated by the 
Anglo-American journalist Henry M. Stanley, who reports seeing a “mob, 
indiscriminate of officers and men, rudely jostling each other in the 
endeavour to get possession of a small piece of Theodore’s blood-stained
 shirt. No guard was placed over the body until it was naked”.
The troops, it is agreed by all observers, also seized whatever 
valuables they could find in and around the citadel. Markham records 
that they “dispersed” all over the mountain top and that the Emperor’s 
treasury was “soon entirely rifled”.
The nearby church of Medhane Alem, literally, the Saviour of the 
World, or at least its eqa bet, or store house, was apparently also 
looted, though this action, constituting as it did a gross act of 
sacrilege, is glossed over in the British accounts. It is, however, 
evident that most of the many religious manuscripts, crosses, and other 
ecclesiastical objects acquired by the British troops at Maqdala could 
only have come from one or other of the its two churches. Several 
Ethiopian manuscripts later brought to Britain in fact contain tell-tale
 inscriptions to the effect that they belonged to Medhane Alem Church, 
while a manuscript in the Bodleian Library. in Oxford, (M.S. Aeth. d. 1)
 bears a pencil note, in English, stating that it was “taken from a 
church at Maqdala in 1868″, i.e. the year of the Expedition.
The loot from Maqdala, according to Stanley, included “an infinite 
variety of gold, and silver and brass crosses”, as well as “heaps of 
parchment royally illuminated”, and many other articles which were, 
before long, “scattered in infinite bewilderment and confusion until 
they dotted the whole surface of the rocky citadel, the slopes of the 
hill and the entire road to the [British] camp two miles off”.
III. Sir Richard Holmes
One of those present at this act of plunder was Richard, later Sir 
Richard, Holmes, Assistant in the British Museum’s Department of 
Manuscripts, who had been appointed the Expedition’s “archaeologist”. He
 claimed in an official report that the British flag had “not been waved
 … much more than ten minutes” before he himself had entered the fort. 
Shortly afterwards, at dusk, he met a British soldier, who was carrying 
the crown of the Abun, i.e. the Head of the Ethiopian Church, and a 
“solid gold chalice weighing at least 6lbs”. Holmes succeeded in 
purchasing both for £4 Sterling. He was, on the same occasion, also 
offered several large manuscripts, but declined them because they were, 
he says, too heavy to carry!
The British military authorities, which, in accordance with the 
custom of the day, saw no objection to the principle of plunder, sought,
 however, to regularise it: to render the distribution of booty 
“fairer”, and in effect to ensure that officers, and others with ample 
funds, could acquire the lion’s share – at the expence of the ordinary 
soldiers.
The loot from Maqdala was accordingly collected, on Napier’s orders, for subsequent auction.
IV. The Burning of Maqdala
Steps were meanwhile taken by the British military authorities, on 
the afternoon April 17, entirely to destroy the city. Working-parties, 
according to a British officer, Captain Hozier, laid mines under the 
gate and other defences, as well as Tewodros’s artillery which had been 
cast with great difficulty by the Emperor’s European artisans. The fort 
was then blown up, together, Markham notes, with an “an ill-fated cow”, 
who, unfortunately for her, happened to be present at that moment. The 
Emperor’s palace and all other buildings, including the church of 
Medhane Alem, were next set on fire. The conflagration, Hozier reports, 
“spread quickly from habitation to habitation and sent up a heavy cloud 
of dense smoke which could be seen for many miles”.
The British troops then secured “good positions”, Stanley states, 
“from whence the mighty conflagration … could be seen to advantage”.
Describing the destruction of Tewodros’s capital in some detail, Stanley continues:
“The easterly wind gradually grew stronger, fanning incipient tongues
 of flame visible on the roofs of houses until they grew larger under 
the skillful nursing and finally sprang aloft in crimson jets, darting 
upward and then circling round on their centres as the breeze played 
with them. A steady puff of wind leveled the flaming tongues in a wave, 
and the jets became united into an igneous lake!
“The heat became more and more intense; loaded pistols and guns, and 
shells thrown in by the British batteries, but which had not been 
discharged, exploded with deafening reports… Three thousand houses and a
 million combustible things were burning. Not one house would have 
escaped destruction in the mighty ebb and flow of that deluge of fire”.
V. A Two Day Auction
The loot from Maqdala was then transported, on fifteen elephants and 
almost two hundred mules, to the nearby Dalanta Plain. There, on 20 and 
21 April, the British military authorities held a two-day auction to 
raise “prize-money” for the troops. “Bidders”, Stanley states, “were not
 scarce for every officer and civilian desired some souvenir”, among 
them “richly illuminated Bibles and manuscripts”. Holmes, acting on 
behalf of the British Museum, was one of the principal purchasers. 
Stanley describes him “in his full glory” for, “armed with ample funds, 
he out-bid all in most things”. Colonel Frazer, buying for a regimental 
mess “ran him hard”, and “when anything belonging personally to Theodore
 was offered for sale, there were private gentlemen who outbid both”.
This officially organised sale raised a total of £5,000, which assured each enlisted man “a trifle over four dollars”.
VI. British Museum and Other British Library Acquisitions 
As a result of Holmes, the British Museum, now the British Library, 
became the receiver of 350 Ethiopian manuscripts, many of them finely 
illuminated. A further six exceptionally beautiful specimens were 
acquired by the Royal Library at Windsor Castle.
Sir Robert Napier later presented another manuscript to the Royal 
Library in Vienna, while two others reached the German Kaiser, and a 
further two the Biblioltheque Nationalein Paris.
Almost two hundred other volumes were subsequently acquired by the 
Bodleian Library in Oxford, Cambridge University Library, the John 
Rylands Library in Manchester, and several smaller British collections.
Several of these manuscripts contain extensive archival material, 
including Tewodros’s tax records, which have been edited by the present 
author, as much other data essential for the study of Ethiopian history,
 including that of the history of the country’s art.
The loot also included: two crowns, and a royal cap, all three 
seemingly belonging to Tewodros, and his imperial seal; a golden 
chalice, probably that mentioned in Holmes’s above-mentioned report; ten
 tabots, or altar slabs, evidently looted from the churches of Maqdala; a
 number of beautiful processional crosses, which ended up at the South 
Kensington Museum, later the Victoria and Albert Museum; two of the 
Emperor’s richly embroidered tents, which are now in the Museum of 
Mankind, in London; and pieces of the deceased monarch’s hair, some of 
it to be seen to this day in the National Army Museum, also in London.
VII. The Initiative of Emperor Yohannes IV 
Tewodros’s successor, Emperor Yohannes IV, was deeply grieved by the 
loss of the treasures from Maqdala. Having no hope of obtaining full 
restitution he wrote two letters, on 10 August 1872, to Queen Victoria 
and the British Foreign Secretary, Earl Granville, respectively. In them
 he requested the return of two items, a manuscript and an icon . Both 
were considered of particular importance. The manuscript was a Kebra 
Nagast, or “Glory of Kings”, which, though not specified in his letter, 
was of especial interest in that its end-papers contained “historical 
notices and other documents” relating to the city of Aksum, as Dr Dieu 
of the British Museum was later to note.
The icon was no less notable. Known in Ge‘ez as a Kwer’ata Re‘esu, 
literally “Striking of His Head”, it was a representation of Christ with
 the Crown of Thorns. This painting had, since at least the seventeenth 
century, been taken by Ethiopian rulers and their armies with them 
whenever they went on a major, or particularly hazardous, campaign. This
 highly prized painting had been captured by the Sudanese in the 
eighteenth century, but had later been repurchased, on which occasion, 
the Scottish traveller and historian James Bruce recalls, Gondar, the 
then Ethiopian capital, was “drunk with joy”.
On receiving the two letters from Emperor Yohannes, the British 
Government informed the British Museum that it would be a “gracious and 
friendly act”, if it complied with the Ethiopian request. The Museum 
authorities, on investigating the matter, found that they possessed two 
copies of the Kebra Nagast, both taken from Maqdala, and accordingly 
agreed to return one, in Dr Dieu’s view the less interesting.
This manuscript is noteworthy in that it was the only acquisition of 
the Museum ever to be restored to its former owners, and thus sets an 
interesting precedent for the return of loot not only to Ethiopia, but 
also to the Third World.
VIII. Mystery of The Missing Icon 
The icon, unlike the manuscript, could not be found. Queen Victoria 
accordingly replied to Emperor Yohannes, on 18 December, declaring: “Of 
the picture we can discover no trace whatever, and we do not think it 
can have been brought to England”.
In this belief Her Majesty was, however, completely mistaken, for the
 painting had been acquired by Holmes, who had kept it for himself. 
Having some time later left the Museum’s service, he was at that very 
moment non other than the Queen’s Librarian at Windsor Castle.
His ownership of the painting was not, however, publicly acknowledged
 until 1890, a year after Yohannes’s death; and it was not until 1905 
that a photograph of the icon was allowed to appear in The Burlington 
Magazine, an art journal with which Holmes was associated. The 
reproduction bore the revealing caption:
“Head of Christ formerly in the possession of King Theodore of Abyssinia, now in the possession of Sir Richard Holmes, K.C.V.O.”
By then, the request by Emperor Yohannes for the restitution of the icon had, of course, long since been filed away!
IX. Lady Meux
The most famous private collection of Ethiopian manuscripts from 
Maqdala was that acquired by an English woman, Lady Valorie Meux, who 
had several of them published in London, in facsimile editions, with 
translations by Sir Ernest Wallis Budge. These manuscripts were seen by 
Emperor Menilek’s envoy Ras Makonnen, who had come to England, in 1902, 
for the Coronation of King Edward VII. When the Ras saw these 
manuscripts, he expressed great admiration, stating that he had “never 
seen any such beautiful manuscripts” in his country, and declared that 
he would “ask the Emperor to buy them back”.
Later towards the end her life, when Lady Meux made her Will, on 
January 1910, she bequeathed her Ethiopian manuscripts to Emperor 
Menilek. The Times, reporting this, stated that “envoys from the Emperor
 were sent over to arrange for their [the manuscripts’] recovery, and it
 is believed that the present bequest is the fulfillment of a promise 
then given”.
Lady Meux died on 20 December of the same year. Her Will created a 
sensation, because a section of the British public apparently pined for 
the manuscripts’ retention in England. An article in The Times, of 7 
February 1911, stated: “Many persons interested in Oriental 
Christianity… will view with extreme regret the decision of Lady Meux to
 send her valuable MSS once and for all out of the country”.
The Will was thereupon overturned, on the ground that Menilek was 
dead when Lady Meux died. He did not in fact die until December 1913, 
and in any case had heirs
Lady Meux’s intention was, however, frustrated. Ethiopia was in a 
sense robbed a second time – for the manuscripts were retained in 
England.
X.Twentieth Century Piecemeal Restitution 
The story of the loot from Maqdala came to the fore again several 
times in the twentieth century, and will continue to do so, no doubt, 
until restitution is finally made.
The British Government, though unwilling to recognise what would now 
be considered the original immorality of looting Tewodros’s capital, 
found it convenient, when suitable occasions arose, to dole out a few 
articles of loot, almost as articles of charity.
During the visit of Ras Tafari Makonnen, the future Emperor Haile 
Sellassie, to Britain in 1924, the British Government thus arranged to 
send the then Ethiopian ruler, Empress Zawditu, one of the Tewodros’s 
two crowns. The one selected was silver-gilt, enabling the Victoria and 
Albert Museum to retain the more valuable, gold crown.
Forty years later, at the end of Queen Elizabeth’s State visit to 
Ethiopia in 1965, the British Government likewise arranged that Her 
Majesty should present Emperor Haile Sellassie, with Tewodros’ royal cap
 and seal.
The time, it is widely believed, to consider the return of the loot 
from Maqdala in its entirety, rather to continue with such haphazard 
acts of belated repatriation.
(The above account is based on the author’s article “The Napier 
Expedition and the Loot form Maqdala”, which appeared in Presence 
Africaine (1985), Nos. 133-4, pp. 233-40. The latter article contains 
full bibliographical references to all the passages above quoted).
Source: http://www.linkethiopia.org
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